DST64024 Garment Draping

24/04/2025 - 24/07/2025 (Week 1 - Week 14)

Garment Draping DST64024 / Bachelor of Fashion Design Technology (Hons.)
Sultan Rey Delviero / 0377830

---

TASK

Week 1 - 3 (Basic Top - Classic Princess Line & Princess Armhole, Basic Kebaya Kelepet Pattern)

Week 1

On the first week of class, we are going to learn how to construct a Classic Princess Line basic top. First, we learned about where the grain line in fabric lies, and how it makes a difference in how the garment turns out.

There are also different types of calico, which usually comes in different colors, thickness, and texture.

After we learned about our calico, we proceeded onto watching a tutorial on how to construct the princess line top.

After draping it on the mannequin, I joined all of the previously dotted line, and cut it with the seam allowance.

After all of my pieces are ready, I traced it on the mahjong to archive the patterns, and hand stitched all the pieces together to put it on the mannequin for submission.

Week 2 

After the classic princess line, we did the princess armhole. This was us watching the demo on how to drape it.

After we drape, we were taught a technique on how to scrunch the curve part using the sewing machine.

This is my archived pattern on mahjong. After I traced, I proceeded to hand sew the calico pieces together.

Week 3

Before Proceeding on our final task garment construction, we did the universal kebaya pattern first with the model's measurements, guided by Miss Melina. From this basic pattern, we can adjust and add our own tweaks according to our design.

Week 1 - 3 (Basic Top - Classic Princess Line & Princess Armhole, Basic Kebaya Kelepet Pattern) Reflection

Although the tasks through the past weeks has been relatively easy, It will be our fundamentals while we are working on our kebaya. The princess line and armhole teaches us how to play with bodice darts, and create a body-fitting silhouette, just like the kebaya. The basic kebaya pattern than Miss Melina guided us to construct is also a very helpful tool as the base of our modern kebaya's pattern.

This assignment taught me the basics of draping on a mannequin, which will be very useful in making fitted dresses or corsets, and being able to see how the garment will roughly fit without having to draft an actual paper pattern.

Week 4 - 5 (Technical Drawing and Test Fit Construction)

Week 4 

On this week, I finished my technical drawing for my look. My garment consists of 3 pieces, which are the kebaya, skirt, and corset. 

We also started to draft our pattern this week. This is my completed front and back skirt pattern. 

After completing my skirt pattern, I continued to drape my corset panels onto the mannequin to create a body-fitting silhouette. I wanted the edges to be sharp and gradually gets longer from the front to the back.

As I wanted the panels to be longer, I elongated them by tracing the draped panels on a spare piece of calico, so it would be easier to measure rather than draping long panels on the mannequin which will be very hard to mark.

Week 5

This week, I started on my bodice (kebaya) pattern. The kebaya type that I chose is Kebaya Kota Bharu, which has the lidah in the middle of the bodice. 

The main challenge was how to make the shoulder and arm sleeve part, as those are where the main attention goes to, with the structured pointed shape. I also had to make sure that the armholes can fit the model's arms, which was quite difficult based on the shoulder shape I made.

This was half of the test fit that I made this week, which was the bodice (without the lidah) and the corset together. 

This is the compilation of all of the patterns together.

This is the compilation of the test fit.

Week 4 - 5 (Technical Drawing, Texture Sampling, and Test Fit Construction) Reflection

The past 2 week has ben the roughest for me throughout processing in this semester. I had a lot of difficulties, mainly in making the patterns, and re-choosing the materials after the theme changed. I was frustrated, and eventually cried. I felt really bad for everyone, as I don't think I deserved to cry, as everyone was just as stressed as myself. But I am very thankful for my lecturers and peers, who comforted me when I needed it. After I got over my frustration, I motivated myself again and succeeded in constructing my tasks.

Week 6 - 8 (Garment Construction (Pre-Garment Checking))

Week 6 

On this week, I decided to start with my corset first. I cut the songket based on the pattern, and made sure the colors on each side mirror each other, then sewn the half length of the panels together so the bottom part of the panel can swing around.

Although, I had to redo the corset as I had difficulties on putting the lining when the panels are already joined together.

Because I need more of the songket fabric, I decided to set the corset aside first until I get more fabric and decided to work on the kebaya first.

This is me preparing and cutting the fabric before sewing it.

This is the progress I made on the kebaya this week. I still haven't made the lidah for the middle part and the sleeves are still just draped to the mannequin. But my plan is to do something similar to the draped sleeves, which is using the organza to create layers of color and create a beautiful wing-like silhouette. I also added lining to the kebaya.

Week 7

This week, I progressed to make my lidah after the kebaya's silhouette is already visible. This time, before combining it together, I joined the individual panels with the lining together first, leaving the part where I put the zipper open to turn. After turning it, I sewn the zipper in by turning the excess inwards and top stitched it over the zipper.

Although it's still not attached to the kebaya, I marked where I have to sew the lidah by pinning the seam line. 

After I'm satisfied with my current bodice's look with the lidah, I went to Tuanku Abdul Rahman Pasar to get my songket fabric again. This is a picture of me cutting the new panels on the fresh fabric. 

Learning from my previous mistake, this time I joined the lining first before combining the panels. I am very satisfied of how this turned out.

This was how the finished corset turned out. I also added the metal zipper in the middle as the opening, and asked my classmate to try it on, which fitted perfectly.

As I only had 1 day left before the garment checking on the next week, I rushed to do my skirt.

Although I rushed and it didn't turn out as neat as I wanted it to be, I felt like it was good enough to show on the garment checking day, so I proceeded and planned to redo it after.

This was the try on D-1. I was overall satisfied with the silhouette, and just planned to tweak and finalize it after the garment checking.

Week 6 - 8 (Garment Construction (Pre-Garment Checking)) Reflection 

Although I had lack of sleep while doing this task, the amount of things I learned through this week makes up for it. From learning how to custom my own fabric, constructing a structured garment, attaching lining, and harmonizing each piece of my garment, Is a valuable experience that will help me throughout my journey. I am grateful for Miss Melina and Mr. Jasmi, who always helps me when I am confused and in question of something. This week also teaches me that if we always work with a smile and in high spirits, anything will be enjoyable and the results won't disappoint us.

Week 8 - 11 & Week 14  (Garment Checking, Finalization & Final Touches, Pre-Judging, and Fashion Show)

Week 8 

This is how my garment turned out on the garment checking day. The feedback for improvements that I got was :

1. Add more panels to the corset to create layers,

2. to open the skirt's front zipper during the fashion show so it will flow beautifully on the walk, 

3. tidy up the hemming and the finishing of the garment, and

4. update the design image to match with the actual garment more.

I cut and put more panels for the corset and arranged it so it would create beautiful layers on top of each other.

Week 9

I combined the lidah onto the bodice, joined the sleeves to the armhole, and did a test fit on my friend. I also finished doing my skirt with the hook & eye and zippers.

This was the completed look during the pre-judging. 

Week 10 

After the pre-judging, next week is where we will have our fashion show at Heritage Valley Kuala Lumpur with OPPO Malaysia's music festival. As I have completed my garment, I just proceeded to do my tasks for the other modules.

Week 11

This was the fashion show day. Here, we dressed our models and wait until they walk up to the stage. Then, everyone from our class was asked to stand on the stage, for them to announce the winner.  

Thank god, I won third place. I took pictures with my lecturers and model, and shot an extra scene for the commercial. I am very grateful for this opportunity.

Week 14

This week is our presentation day, as well as our last week of class. I got to present first as a result of our sequence lucky draw.

I am very thankful for my classmate Pah Jane, who was willing to come very early in the morning to model for my garment. 

Week 8 - 11 & Week 14  (Garment Checking, Finalization & Final Touches, Pre-Judging, and Fashion Show) Reflection

These weeks, are the weeks where I am very grateful of how far I have came. From having my garment checked by Malaysia's prominent fashion figures, being chosen to shoot a TVC for a big company, being acknowledged for my work, having my first fashion show and winning in it, feels like a dream. This is a very big leap and milestone on my life, that I would cherish every moment in it. Opportunities doesn't always come twice, and I am grateful to be given one in such a relatively short time during my first year studying. 

I am thankful for every second I spent processing in the studio, alongside my amazing Lecturers, and my lovely coursemates, that are always there to help and motivate each other. This semester has been a really great time for me, and I couldn't express more how grateful I am for the opportunities given on the past 14 weeks.

Week 12 - 14 (Garment Draping Exploration - Bustier)

Week 12

After the fashion show, we had finished on making our final kebaya garment. For garment draping we had another task which is exploring about corsets. We had to find and make our own corset silhouettes, and drape it on the mannequin, then construct it with cotton lining and boning.

This was the result of the initial draping I did for my base pattern, before cutting it up to more pieces.

Week 13

After tracing and connecting the base pattern on another piece of calico, I cut the new pieces into 8 parts, and measured where the bust radius is to put the bra cup. I also made sure that some parts are still straight for me to put the boning. I also traced both of the Base and Master patterns onto a mahjong paper to archive it.

Week 14

On this week, I proceeded to sew everything together, and added a zipper to the back as the opening. I used a 24-inch zipper, so that the wearer wouldn't have difficulties putting it on. I also trimmed the seam allowance before turning the lining, so the insides wouldn't be too thick and the curves will show nicely.

This is the compilation of the finished product.

Week 12 - 14 (Garment Draping Exploration - Bustier) Reflection

This assignment was done after our final garment construction, during the last few weeks before the end of semester. I was procrastinating because I was too lazy to do this task. But, after completing it, I felt satisfied as there are actually a lot of things that I learned from this assignment. From attaching boning and bra cup, to doing layers of lining. This will help me build my skill fundamentals on being able to construct a more structured garment.